A Beverage Life Ahead Of The Curve

Athletic Brewing Company options available at LeNell’s Beverage Boutique (photo courtesy of LeNell’s Boutique)

The Magic City’s adult beverage queen introduces patrons to the benefits of non-alcoholic beer, one Athletic brew at a time.

In our aim to celebrate N/A beer across the country, sometimes that means shining a spotlight in an unexpected place. And so it is with the Alabama selection of our ongoing US of N/A series, a state that as of this writing does not brew a non-alcoholic beer within its heart of Dixie borders. Instead we highlight LeNell’s Beverage Boutique, an adult beverage store located in the Norwood neighborhood of Birmingham, opened in 2018 by LeNell Camacho Santa Ana, known in some circles as the first lady of liquor (more on that shortly). Whatever the Yellowhammer State may lack in terms of home-brewed N/A options, LeNell makes up for it by being a beacon for non-alc options, at present boasting 18 different varieties from her favorite non-alcoholic brewery, Athletic Brewing Company. It’s a selection that would rival any AF bottle shop in the country, and noteworthy that she carries only four options of alcoholic beer in comparison. Furthermore, her shop also regularly features non-alcoholic spirits and wines, no doubt joining the chorus of pioneers around the country educating new consumers on the benefits of N/A. “I have always said that I am about the beverage experience, the ritual of gathering, the experience of community no matter with or without alcohol,” explains LeNell. “The ritual of beverage satisfies more than thirst.”

Now, back to that first lady of liquor thing. The subject of a Garden & Gun feature shortly after opening her shop, LeNell has spent four decades in the beverage industry, leaving the South early in her career for Brooklyn where she would open her first shop in the early aughts. It was there she became known for stocking products that often could not be found elsewhere, attracting the attention of third-generation whiskey heir Julian P. Van Winkle III, whose now legendary Pappy Van Winkle brand she lent support for, part of leading a resurgence in both the brand and the overall whiskey category in the U.S. Clearly, her penchant for trailblazing started well before the N/A movement would take hold. After spending two years in Mexico following her time in New York, she would eventually return home to Birmingham in 2011. The beverage world (and by extension, the N/A world) in Alabama’s largest city has been the better for it ever since.

So why the focus on Athletic Brewing Company, and which one of their growing portfolio of beers is her favorite? “I love them all! I have tried other brands and none have come close to the satisfaction I feel drinking Athletic,” said LeNell, adding that other non-alcoholic beers can have a feeling of flatness to them. With a life-long track record of being on the forefront of drinking trends, who are we to argue with that?

IF YOU VISIT: LeNell’s Beverage Boutique is located in the historic Norwood neighborhood, at 1208 32nd St. N., Birmingham, Alabama.